Stone Settings Techniques Traditionally, the task of setting gemstones is done by a master setter. Use conventional bezel pushers to move the bezel enough to touch the stone, at least at the four cardinal points. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases referred from our site. The primary purpose of the bearing in this case is to level the stone and hold it in position as the stone is set.
Clear thinking on this fundamental question will assist in the many decisions that must follow, including proportion, style, texture, color, location and size. As mentioned above for frames, the bearing for a prong setting can either be added on or cut from the material itself. h�b```b``ve`e`�p``@ �+GC� ���g�6ÆE,�q��Ox���>x�|3W&XVO@��a���FwG���˖M+r�oWk. Traditionally, the task of setting gemstones is done by a master setter. Each prong is then pressed over the stone part way, the stone is checked to be certain it is level, and the prongs are set down firmly onto the stone. The cone is shaped on a mandrel and filed to uniform symmetry. In cases where a stone is very delicate or a bezel wall very thick, it is often easier to set a bezel using a hammer and punch.
There are many different ways of fabricating bezels and The upper edge is sanded smooth and divided with a compass or template into the chosen number of prongs, typically 4, 6 or 8. This is then set on an anvil or similar steel form and planished at one end, making sure to strike each of the four surfaces equally. In removing stones, remember that every stone, even those considered hard, should be treated with great care. International Gem Society LLC. 0000006330 00000 n Frame settings are particularly good for translucent and transparent gems because light can enter from the back side, but they can of course be used for opaque stones as well. To date 21,452 people have contributed questions and answers to the Orchid Community over the past 20 years and counting. Particularly once an ideal blank has been determined by trial and error, this stamping die is both easy and quick to use. 0000007253 00000 n
%PDF-1.5 %���� If the bezel is irregular after pressing, use a flat file or pumice wheel to make the surface flat before burnishing.
0000005409 00000 n The disadvantage of this tool is its cost, but for some studios this will quickly be covered by the efficiency of the operation. To layout a cone, first draw the intended shape in profile, or side view. Always work over a table, leather bag or sweeps drawer to catch the stone in case it is dropped. When the bezel is made completely ready, it is wise to check the piece one last time to be certain that no further soldering will be necessary. 0000004131 00000 n Affiliate Disclosure To accomplish this, press the bezel toward the stone, then move the tool to a point directly opposite and repeat the process, again pressing the bezel only part way down. In order to avoid a pucker of metal at any one point, it is important to distribute the compression of the bezel around the stone. Gold & Platinum Members
0000002540 00000 n The object is anchored by whatever method suits the studio and the stone setter: in the example shown in figure 12.6 it has been attached to a shellac (or pitch) stick. trailer <<96DFD4BBB7824A988E3E64626C742B6F>]/Prev 612038>> startxref 0 %%EOF 142 0 obj <>stream 0000001495 00000 n The excess sheet is cut off with a saw and the edges are filed (figure 12.1b). Of course it must be noted that the bearing cannot be cut too deeply for fear of breaking through the wall. Because light does not usually enter a bezel set stone from behind, the setting is most commonly used for opaque stones. A few examples are shown in figure. The pleasure and challenge of including gems in a jewelry object (beyond the intrinsic beauty of the gem, of course) is to resolve the various factors that come into play. If you can mentally “fill in” the scooped out openings in figure 12.12a, you will see how much it resembles the bezel shown at figure 12.4a. products and services. A motorized version of this process is made possible through a hammer handpiece, a specialty piece of equipment that converts the rotary motion of a flexible shaft machine to a back and forth stroke. When the fit is correct, solder the bezel closed and test the cameo in it, marking the orientation so it is repeated each time. The advantages of this method lie in controlled measurements, even metal thickness, and the fact that this does not require special equipment. It’s worth it to watch the entire video. The first step is to secure the stone sufficiently that it won’t jump about as the bezel is being pressed over. receive 25% off our
... A generic term for a technique of setting a stone into a metal surface using an engraving tool called a setting bur. This will visually lighten the setting. This variation on a bezel is less straightforward but sometimes the only solution, particularly when setting a panel of irregular contours. Alternately, this piece may be made by soldering the prong onto sheet or by making the cone a little long, cutting the lower piece away, then reattaching it after the filing is complete. Orchid Community It is clearly most efficient if this can be done without harming the setting so it can be used again, but it often happens that a piece old enough to be brought in for repair is also sufficiently worn that the settings will need to be replaced. | Learn more. An overview of how to bead set stones in metal. 0000002428 00000 n Of course, you could fabricate your own out of wire by soldering, filing and notch cutting; but, these pre-made findings can save you a lot of time when you are using calibrated stone sizes in your work. The thickness of the metal sheet must be determined for each case, and will depend on the size of the stone, the type of metal being used, and the nature of the jewelry item. All rights reserved. In a proper construction the fit is so tight it must be forced into place. Perhaps the most universally useful method is to fabricate the frame from sheet metal, following patterns like those shown in figure 12.3.
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